Grado, and a simple cheap hotel

I'm sitting in a simple, cheap hotel ( peregrino discounts are always good) in Grado, I decided at about 2:30pm I'd had enough walking, knowing that there's no food at the next albergue so I'd have to buy dinner and breakfast then carry it another 4 1/2km made the decision pretty easy. So I'm now sitting in the bar, watching dodgy Spanish TV, drinking a Cola-Cao. Cola-Cao, despite the suggestive name, has nothing to do with Coca-Cola, it's a malty, chocolaty type of drink that the Spanish inhale, and it's perfect when you're hungry but know that Spanish dinner time is still a long way off !

The walk today was pleasant (23km I think), largely in countryside along small roads

And the clouds & mist kept it thankfully cool for walking. 

Cat house, a few could be Muppet's Spanish brothers

Grado is a nicer place than I had anticipated, it's very small but there's a nice square with cafés surrounding it, some old buildings, and a relaxed feel. 

Just after siesta time, which is widely still observed in this part of Spain. I had a beer watching the plaza gradually come to life. 

The statue of a farming woman, in the town plaza. All the buildings were painted beautiful colours, really vivid when the sun came out. 

New boots in Oviedo

Well I really didn't want to have to change boots half way through the trip, but my beloved Scarpas had worn through to the plastic on one heel, and we're rapidly going that way on the other heel. 

So I took the plunge today and purchased a pair of new, shiny Scarpas. I tried to stay as similar as possible to my old boots, and wearing them all day today they've been fine. Fingers crossed, I'll know in the next day or two if it was the right decision !

Oviedo has been rather different compared to my expectations, I'd seen only the old areas in a couple of films, and it's a bustling, modern Spanish city of which the old centre is just one part. I've enjoyed being here, once I readjusted my viewpoint, and it's certainly supplied one of the most comfortable little hotels I've stayed in. I will miss this wonderful, comfortable bed, and lovely shower with rainshower head and side jets. 

A display of Asturian dancing, to the sound of bagpipes and drums

The cathedral, and narrow streets of the old town

This sculpture, in one of the main shopping streets, is "The Ballerina"

One of the main shopping streets. This is the side I had not anticipated, busy bustling modern streets. 

 A beautiful square in the old part of town, very easy to get lost in here. I had lunch close to here today, Asturian bean soup, which is more like a stew with some ham in it, goat schnitzel which was beautiful, and rice puddling with caramelised sauger on top - I could scarcely move after all that food and had to retire to my hotel for a siesta - good thing I'm heading back out on the Camino tomorrow. 

It's the real start to the Camino Primitivo tomorrow, as we start climbing into the hills. I've rationalised my backpack again, and posted yet more stuff to Santiago de Compostela. Another 1.25kg down, so I think I am at about 8kg total. There are a lot of ascents and descents in the next days, so I am happier knowing that my backpack is as light as possible. 

I'm looking forward to starting again, Oviedo has been lovely and very useful to get some practical stuff done, but it feels like time to start walking again. I think I am about 2/3 of the way through, I haven't checked the kilometres for a while but that's what it looks like on the map. I just keep hoping for good weather, so far I have been incredibly lucky. 

The next few days will be pretty isolated, from reading my guidebook, so no updates for a few days. 

The walking, and simple routines of the Camino, and continual opening up of new vistas, are strangely addictive. After a few days of luxury, it's almost a relief to get started packing the rucksack, and know that tomorrow it's off again following the yellow arrows. I guess the decisions are simple ones, the options are limited, and there's companionship along the way. 

Oviedo, and start of the Camino Primitivo

I am now in the Camino Primitivo ! Yesterday we came to the split in the way, and took the road less travelled. 

Not the best photograph, but if you look closely at the markers, there's one for Oviedo on the Primitivo, and a shell for Gijon on the Norte. The difference is coastal compared to mountains, and road walking compared to hill climbs - I have definitely chosen the more challenging option with the Primitivo. 

After glorious blue skies and monasteries yesterday

Then cows and a misty morning today

While walking along forest tracks where I fully expected to see elves and hobbits

I am now in Oviedo, full of amazing jamon, followed by the ever-present mixed salad (but a good one) and one of the best steaks I've had in a while. It's the first time I've seen a statue that really does look like someone's bum, in the middle of the city

However, more photos to follow after tomorrow's walkabout.  The old centre is beautiful, if somewhat touristed. 

Just an interesting clash of cultures, with a hip hop festival right in front of the cathedral, another stage nearby with a great cover band doing Amy Winehouse followed by The Bangles, and a group of graffiti artists decoratimg some boards. I love the Spanish lack of apprehension about mixing styles, eras, genres. The next photo was taken 3m from the one above. 

Surreal experiences in Villiviciosa

Well, really only one surreal experience, finding out there's a bagpipes festival this weekend, here in a tiny agricultural town, then listening to them practicing for tomorrow 

Not a great photograph, but sort of shows the Asturian bagpipes. They don't sound quite the same as the Scottish ones, but similar and similarly able to carry a very long distance. 

Very peaceful, quiet day, in this pretty, very apple-focused town, wandering the streets and enjoying doing, well, nothing very much. I tested the local sidre, of course, it's very pleasant, not as sour as the Basque sidre and slightly fizzy. You pour only a little at a time, from a height, to get the fizz into it. 

The first thing you see as you enter the town centre, a rather large apple sculpture

A tiny beautiful marzipan apple, down to the twig used to imitate the stalk. About twice the size of my thumb nail, and didn't last very long. 

This town loves it's festivals, I won't stay around but this weekend there's a religious festival, the bagpipes festival, a canoe race, and a cow festival ! The Spanish love their festivals, and put a lot of time and effort into them. 

I don't usually take photographs of my food, but I did eat one of the best salads I've had here, today.

On a more serious note, I walked too far yesterday, and while I managed it and was OK without any major problems other than my feet pounding a lot last night, it has made me consider what I can, and cannot do. Yesterday was 31km, way too far for me. So, I will be more careful in future to break the days up differently, if this means I have to catch the occasional bus, then so be it. Everyone's Camino is unique to them, and while public transport isn't the intention, it is an option. If it means that I do smaller stages, take more time, and don't manage to get to Finisterre, then that may be my Camino. 

I went to a beautiful service today, in the little church, very tranquil and meditative ( actually not what I'd expected from a Catholic service), and this gave me the time to think through the previous day, and realise that I have been given a timely reminder that while I can occasionally do the big days, I shouldn't do them, and don't need to do them. 

Villaviciosa, apple capital of Spain

Just arrived in Villaviciosa, reputedly the apple capital of Spain, and producer of lots of sidre, Spanish cider. I shall have to try some, purely medicinal of course ... it was very pleasant last night, less sour than the Basque area cider and poured from a height to get the fizz going. 

Tomorrow is a rest day, after a couple of big days a quiet day in a little agricultural town suits me just fine. Imagine a Spanish version of Donnybrook, and you just about have it. More updates then, once I've slept and regained some energy. 

Literally walking through the fields, dodging the cow pats

Path used for the Camino in medieval times, well the middle bit anyway

Monasteries and coastal paths, to Nueva

A day of beautiful coastal paths, misty mountains in the morning ( somewhat scary as I'll be in these mountains in only a few days), beaches, and monasteries perched in spectacular locations. 

Today was a (relatively) easy day of (only) 18km, to Nueva, as I have a long couple of days coming up, 30km stretches, although I am thinking of a way to break them up differently. Getting into my room, showering, then sleeping for an hour was a timely reminder to keep pacing myself, still a long way to go. I'm in a hotel tonight, cheap and simple but very clean, and am now in a bar happily drinking Belgian beer and thinking I'd better eat something !

There is a festival in Nueva for the Virgin Mary. The whole community were out to watch the procession, with many of the women dressed in traditional costume to walk, singing, in the procession. It was a great holiday atmosphere, but with an element of seriousness and complete participation by the whole village. There is a joy and participation in fiestas and religious ceremonies which is so nice to see - last night in Llanes there was a great fireworks display to celebrate the start of the current festival, which is to thank the Virgin Mary for coming to rescue fishermen off the coast around here, some time in the past. 

The foothills to the Picos de Europa, in which I will be walking in a few days. These really are the foothills, I've seen some of the peaks and they are spectacular. 

Today Libby headed off ahead, as she is meeting a friend an couple of days. I suspect that we will meet again, that tends to happen as people stop for a day or walk ahead. I really should have asked her to stand on the downhill side, the height difference is emphasised ! She was a great Camino partner for a few days. 

One of the beautiful monasteries, still used and active

This 10th - 13th century monastery is obviously not used, other than by a couple of horses for shelter. You can just see them at the middle left hand side. 

Amazing coastline

The women of Nueva, of all ages, dressed in traditional costume. They sing as they walk in the procession, as a float carrying the Virgin Mary, and another carrying a harvest tribute, are carried on the shoulders of people in traditional dress, through the village. At the front of the procession are people playing instruments looking suspiciously like bagpipes, they sound about the same. 

I've mentioned it before, but the importance of these signs can't be underestimated ! My thanks goes to the many people who have painted arrows, mortared tiles, installed road signs, all the way along the Camino. I wouldn't want to do this Camino without a guidebook, but the yellow arrows provide 95% of the route information. Here in Asturias the sign is often the scallop shell of St Jacob, the lines come together to indicate the direction in which to walk. Just to make life confusing, in Galicia they use the same tiles & symbol, but it's the diverging lines which indicate the correct direction .... doh, I can foresee some issues to come. 

A few days off the internet ...

Been a few days off the internet, due to being in very basic accomodation for a couple of days i.e. simple albergues with a great atmosphere and minimal facilities. The other evening was because drinking rose wine seemed a much more important concept than updating a blog ! 

So I'll just add a few photographs here, and do a more detailed description later. In summary, amazing scenery, pretty villages and towns, weather way too hot for walking, met a Perth girl who knows half of the people I know through work as we've overlapped but never actually met ! small world ....

Sentillana del Mar

Medieval little town but unfortunately become too touristed for its own good. However a lovely meal with an international group of peregrinos

Morning leaving from Santillana de Mar

Shortly after dawn

Comillas

Fantastic town, lovely old centre, great beach for two sweaty pilgrims to swim from. Shame about the bed bugs at the cheap hotel. 

Crazy Gaudi house in Comillas, just beautiful

Cobreces 

We didn't stop here, but a cool statue and cathedral

Cobreces, and a funky house built with wealth from the conquering of Mexico

And just a few pictures from today's walking, to Llanes. Beautiful, tough, fun, communal, other people to talk to ....