Monday, 8 September 2014

Monasteries and coastal paths, to Nueva

A day of beautiful coastal paths, misty mountains in the morning ( somewhat scary as I'll be in these mountains in only a few days), beaches, and monasteries perched in spectacular locations. 

Today was a (relatively) easy day of (only) 18km, to Nueva, as I have a long couple of days coming up, 30km stretches, although I am thinking of a way to break them up differently. Getting into my room, showering, then sleeping for an hour was a timely reminder to keep pacing myself, still a long way to go. I'm in a hotel tonight, cheap and simple but very clean, and am now in a bar happily drinking Belgian beer and thinking I'd better eat something !

There is a festival in Nueva for the Virgin Mary. The whole community were out to watch the procession, with many of the women dressed in traditional costume to walk, singing, in the procession. It was a great holiday atmosphere, but with an element of seriousness and complete participation by the whole village. There is a joy and participation in fiestas and religious ceremonies which is so nice to see - last night in Llanes there was a great fireworks display to celebrate the start of the current festival, which is to thank the Virgin Mary for coming to rescue fishermen off the coast around here, some time in the past. 


The foothills to the Picos de Europa, in which I will be walking in a few days. These really are the foothills, I've seen some of the peaks and they are spectacular. 


Today Libby headed off ahead, as she is meeting a friend an couple of days. I suspect that we will meet again, that tends to happen as people stop for a day or walk ahead. I really should have asked her to stand on the downhill side, the height difference is emphasised ! She was a great Camino partner for a few days. 


One of the beautiful monasteries, still used and active


This 10th - 13th century monastery is obviously not used, other than by a couple of horses for shelter. You can just see them at the middle left hand side. 


Amazing coastline



The women of Nueva, of all ages, dressed in traditional costume. They sing as they walk in the procession, as a float carrying the Virgin Mary, and another carrying a harvest tribute, are carried on the shoulders of people in traditional dress, through the village. At the front of the procession are people playing instruments looking suspiciously like bagpipes, they sound about the same. 



I've mentioned it before, but the importance of these signs can't be underestimated ! My thanks goes to the many people who have painted arrows, mortared tiles, installed road signs, all the way along the Camino. I wouldn't want to do this Camino without a guidebook, but the yellow arrows provide 95% of the route information. Here in Asturias the sign is often the scallop shell of St Jacob, the lines come together to indicate the direction in which to walk. Just to make life confusing, in Galicia they use the same tiles & symbol, but it's the diverging lines which indicate the correct direction .... doh, I can foresee some issues to come. 

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